With a pedigree that stretches from Granville College to The Ivy and J Sheekey in London, he headed back to Sheffield when his son was born and set about building up his reputation at Thyme Café, the Plough in Hathersage and the Terrace restaurant just up the road.

For the last year or so he has been working with wine specialist Adrian Walsh, providing bistro and catering services at Food & Fine Wine in Ecclesall Road. Now the adjoining unit has been transformed into Kitchen, a contemporary restaurant, giving John a chance truly to make his mark at last.

"This is the first time I've had a place in Sheffield," he says, with an undisguised hint of pride. "I was told it was an awkward market but people are taking to my stuff quite well."

That said, he admits to holding back on some of his more colourful dishes: "I didn't want to open with offal because I knew that's what people would pick up on. Although it's fashionable, it's still not that popular up here."

So far the menu features nothing more challenging than Three Little Pigs – comprising cheek, fillet and belly of pork – with lamb's brains on the specials board. But John is renowned for his experimental approach and more excesses are bound to follow.

The former herbal store served as an add-on to the wine shop for most of last year. Wine tastings and bistro evenings went down well but the chilly, somewhat soulless atmosphere was less than ideal for a cosy twosome.

Kitchen, however, is an altogether different proposition.

Air conditioning ensures the ambience is just so, whatever the weather – and it doesn't get much worse than the snow and ice we battled through to reach it.

Cool cream paintwork, wooden floor and downlighters give a contemporary minimalist feel; a classy wine rack occupies one wall while others are lined with giant monochrome photos of Sheffield landmarks: the cooling towers, cathedral, the River Don and a steelworks.

Being allied to one of the smartest wine shops in town means the wine list is bound to be interesting; it's also a fair bet that the house wine will be a notch above the average plonk – and so it proves.

Despite the calibre it's very reasonably priced, with a small carafe (enough for a glass and a half) a mere £4.25. It being January, I stick to mineral water.

The menu is predominantly British: "Classics, with no twist, just good cooking."

Starters include goats cheese, broccoli and walnut tart, or scallops and king prawn salad with tomato fondue and bacon mayonnaise.