The former Sheffield civil servant has become something of a local historian since taking over the village's Devonshire Arms Hotel three years ago.

Intrigued about its past, he began investigating and discovered that his family home was built on the site of two former pubs, the Barrel Inn and Travellers' Rest.

By the 19th century it was a main staging post between Sheffield and Manchester and in 1965 the place was completely rebuilt.

Paul broadened his research to include the village too and a whole library of old photos is now on display in the bar, although the story of the murdered policeman remains tantalisingly elusive...

As a restaurant, the Devonshire tends to be overshadowed by its illustrious neighbours, the Cavendish and Fischer's Baslow Hall.

But Paul and wife Jo want to put it on the map and the place is at last beginning to make its mark following the arrival of head chef John Judson.

John – who lives in Sheffield and trained at Castle College – worked at Lords' cricket ground, Wembley conference centre and the Royal Festival Hall before moving back home, working latterly at the Terrace in Hathersage.

He has now embarked on an ambitious transformation of the food service,abandoning the old frozen dishes and introducing a menu of fresh, home-cooked food.

Jo and Paul have just about finished a programme of renovations and are now completing the new look with a regular programme of live music, featuring everything from bluegrass to Dave Berry.

Not that the Devonshire has changed its character. It remains very much a traditional pub, all stained wood, fancy drapes, delft shelf stacked with china plates and silk flowers on the farmhouse-style tables. But there's a quaint charm about the place and a few quirky touches.

Like the blackboard over the bar, informing us that today is the 193rd anniversary of Napoleon's defeat at Waterloo, the old 78rpm records adorning one wall and a chalked message: 'Beware! moustaches increase sandwich output by 15%'.

The wine list is fair with a choice of some 30 bottles, mainly Old World, with a choice of seven house wines at £9.95 or £2.70 per glass. Bar manager Rob Savoury takes pride in his beers, which include Speckled Hen, Abbott and a weekly guest ale.

The menu is a step up from traditional pub grub. There's a regular choice of starters, snacks and main courses, plus a specials board worthy of the name.

There are also a couple of speciality mix-and-match menus: pick one of five different types of sausages, add mash from bubble and squeak to cheese and onion and finish it off with the gravy or sauce of your choice.

Likewise salads, with five different varieties topped with delicacies from barbecued whisky chicken to oak-smoked peppered mackerel, eight different dressings and a warm bread roll.

The food, it must be said, is good although service, we discover, is a take on the good-cop, bad-cop routine.

Things get off to a bad start when our waitress forgets that we've ordered starters: "Oh damn! I forgot to put the orders through. That's me in trouble with the kitchen," she says, in a way that suggests we ought to cancel the order.

We don't and the grilled goat's cheese salad is worth waiting for. Simple but fresh, with that distinctive tang, contrasting nicely with a sweet tomato and chilli dip.

The home-made chicken liver paté is good too, with enough texture to give it bite, and a pot of plummy red onion marmalade.

The waitress is back with our main courses... or not. I ordered baked cod, she brings battered cod. I point out that I wouldn't have ordered deep-fried food and she swears blind I did.

Enter the manager, who immediately offers to replace the dish or give it to me free of charge. Our waitress has other ideas: "But the chef's packing up," she protests.

Not before he's cooked my baked cod, he's not – and it's excellent. A meaty fillet, moist but firm, with a crunchy herb crust and a tomato-rich Provençale sauce. It's beached on a mound of lovely, sticky, cheesey mash, comfort food at its best.

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My companion, meanwhile, is in raptures over his lamb shank, fresh from the local farm shop. Cooked long and slow, the meat just falls off the bone in sweet, tender chunks, to mingle with thick, mint-infused gravy and creamy mashed potato.

The accompanying carrots, swede, cauliflower and broccoli lack finesse but they're cooked to al dente perfection.

We finish our meal with coffee and absolutely the best sticky toffee pudding we've had in ages. Good enough to make me wish I hadn't insisted on sharing!

Dinner for two should have cost around £35, excluding drinks, but dessert is on the house because of the mix-up.

Verdict: Great food, good value, service hit-or-miss. If you can throw any light on the policeman's murder, Paul will be especially pleased to see you.

Open for food: Mon-Sat 12-9pm, Sun until 8.30pm; carvery Fri night, weekends all day.

The Devonshire Arms Hotel, Nether End, Baslow (01246) 582551