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Thursday, 2nd September 2010

Chatsworth source of inspiration

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Published Date: 21 March 2008
With Chatsworth House now opening up for a new season, Derek Fish visits the popular farm shop restaurant
'LOCALLY sourced' is a little like 'home-cooked' in that it's one of those phrases that can cover a multitude of sins.

How near or far is 'local,' how fresh is the produce and what about the quality?

Such questions don't arise at Chatsworth Farm Shop Restaurant.

The reason for that is due to their simple philosophy – the food is sourced primarily from the Chatsworth estate, secondly from the estate's tenant farmers, thirdly from Derbyshire producers and then from other quality suppliers, preferably within the UK.

Of course, it's no use having top produce if the end product doesn't do it justice.

Expectations are always high with any venture from the Devonshires – for the most part nobody does it better – and the Pilsley eaterie lives up to the high standards.

You can taste the food in the restaurant and then go and buy it from the farm shop which must make it one of the best 'tasting rooms' in the area, with the bonus of stunning views across Chatsworth and beyond.
Then again, there are few establishments where the award-winning chefs are backed up by butchers, bakers (no candlestick makers at the last count) and fishmongers.

While the shop has just undergone a £500,000 refit, which includes a fish counter, a new deli and an improved till area in a bid to cut the queues, the restaurant's success story has continued to gather pace since its refurbishment three years ago.

The barn-like building, complete with apex roof, exposed beams and wicker tables and chairs, now caters for around 100 diners. Service is brisk, efficient and friendly.

There's definitely something for everyone on the far-reaching menu which serves breakfast from 9am to 11.30am – a full English costs £5.95 – lunch from noon to 2.30pm and afternoon tea from 2.30 to 3.45pm. Puddings, cakes and scones are available all day.

Main courses are all freshly prepared, seasonal and very well priced, from £4.95 to £8.50 for the roast of the day. Dishes include hot Derbyshire oatcakes filled with Chatsworth ham and farmhouse Cheddar, Andre's chicken liver pate, from a recipe created by farm shop manager Andre Birkett, three cheese and chive flan (£5.95), Chatsworth pork pie platter (£6.95) and a smoked salmon, smoked mackerel and prawn salad (£7.95). There's also a speciality pie, fish and vegetarian dish of the day.

Chatsworth oven-roasted sausages (£6.95) got my vote while M went for the fish of the day, in this instance salmon, at £7.95.

I was informed that the usual Lincolnshire sausages had been replaced by pork but that did little to detract from the dish as the three thick, chunky links were well flavoured, even more so with a dab of English mustard and the unusual, but delightfully tangy, onion marmalade gravy. I liked the chef's sense of humour – intentional or otherwise – with the mashed potato which had a crisp cheesy topping and a cherry tomato in the centre, which gave it the look of a lady's bosom.

No such works of art with the salmon, which was nicely cooked with a delicately-flavoured lemon sauce, the only criticism being it could have been warmer. It was served with new potatoes and, like the sausage, a fresh selection of broccoli, carrots and sugar snaps.

As you would expect, the cakes and puddings are to die for and it doesn't help such a sweetaholic as me when there's 20 to choose from.
We asked about the hot pudding of the day (£3.60) and to our surprise found there was a choice of around six.

My excellent bread and butter pud, packed with sultanas, was incredibly light, with a near melt-in-the-mouth texture and, unlike many places, it wasn't let down by watery custard. M's in-house baked treacle tart had a deep, not over-sweet filling set in a light, crispy pastry.

The Chatsworth theme extends to some of the drinks with a selection of wines by the glass at £3.95, bottles of sparkling wine and vintage champagne at £12.95 and £35 respectively and Gardener's tap beer, brewed by Rob Evans on the estate, at £2.95 a bottle. You can even get a cup of Chatsworth gold standard coffee for £1.80 – the beans are chosen by Chatsworth and roasted to order by Pollards – while most of the teas bear the estate's seal of approval.

We decided on a 0.5 per cent proof Chatsworth chardonnay spring spritzer at just £3.95 for the bottle, a tangy, sparkling blend of spring water and English wine .

The food bill, plus two cappuccinos (£2 each) came to £26.10.

Verdict: A real taste of Chatsworth with good food at a very reasonable price. This has got to be one of the best eat-and-then-buy places in the country.

Opening times: Monday to Saturday 9am-5pm (Tuesday opening 9.30am), Sunday 10am-5pm.

Chatsworth Farm Shop Restaurant, Pilsley, near Bakewell. Telephone: 01246 583392.

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  • Last Updated: 21 March 2008 1:11 PM
  • Source: n/a
  • Location: SHEFFIELD, SOUTH YORKSHIRE
 
 
 

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