Wayne, who took over the kitchen at Bluwater, Victoria Quays, in May, has a reputation founded on inspired nose-to-tail cooking and fine local produce.

But that cuts down his options when it comes to developing an innovative veggie menu.

Now he and Bluwater owner Bob Barber have decided to cook up a challenge that might tempt new suppliers on to the market.

"We've Googled, Yahoo-ed and BBC-ed until our fingers are sore!" says Bob.

"What we're looking for are small, local suppliers – who are also reliable – to provide us with top quality ingredients that will make interesting veggie options."

Highlights of the current Bluwater menu include wood pigeon with raspberry salad and line-caught mackerel with bloody Mary sauce, but Wayne's influence really gets a grip next month with the addition of devilled tripe, and Old Spot brawn (that's jellied pig's head to the uninitiated).

Bob says: "We're finding that diners like to see these dishes on the menu... even if they're not brave enough to try them.

"We've standardised the lunch menu, to make sure we can serve up food consistently. But the evening menu is far more flexible and we usually have a couple of specials that are more unusual, depending on what we can get."

The new fish menu will feature megrim, or whiff, as a main course for sharing – tackling one alone could be a mind-boggling feat since the deep-water European flatfish grows up to 60cm long.

And, come the autumn, the nose-to-tail ethos at Bluwater will really come into its own with well-hung game, hoggart and mutton, pheasant, partridge, mallard, grouse and rich, meaty casseroles of shin, neck, haunch and hock... as well as those inspired new veggie dishes, of course.