I can see all the foodie snobs choking on their foie gras but if Jamie Oliver can get people in Rotherham up and cooking, then why not bring a little posh nosh to the area?

That's exactly what Mike and Maxine Chappell decided to do with the refurbished Pastures Hotel and its Reeds Fine Dining restaurant, now under the Great Western banner.

They recognised the demand for a touch of quality and entrusted the help of executive head chef Lisa Pyott and front of house supremo Ian Allgood to make it happen, although at the moment it's only open for three days a week.

Lisa honed her skills in the RAF, during which time she cooked for the Queen, Princes Charles and Andrew and Princess Anne, plus numerous other dignitaries. After that, helping to put Reeds on the foodie map will be a doddle!

High standards are key and her outlook on food and its preparation remains the same, regardless of who she's cooking for.

Lisa knows fine dining can be 'scary' to some people but feels there's a place for it in the area and, as far as she's concerned, it's not just about the food but the whole package – service, atmosphere and decor etc.

"The concept of fine dining differs from person to person. I don't want to put anyone off, that's why I'm keeping the menu simple with the emphasis on fresh, local produce whenever possible," said Lisa.

"I'm always happy to get feedback from customers as they're the important people – if anyone goes away hungry, then I'd want to know why."

There's not much chance of that if my meal was anything to go by.
Reeds has a classic, modern feel with round and square tables – there's seating for around 80 – with white tablecloths plus red velour upholstered chairs and strategically shaped seats.

There's a filigree stained glass partial division between the bar and the dining area which is also reflected in a screen between some tables.

We were treated to an appetiser of various breads along with olives, a balsamic and olive oil dip and a very refreshing herb butter mousse.

There was a good mixture among the seven starters which included mini Yorkshire puddings filled with peppered beef fillet, horseradish and caramelised onions (£6.95), chicken tikka (£6.95), king prawn cocktail, at £7.95 the most expensive, and creamy wild mushroom and parsley soup (£4.75).

I decided to try the grilled halloumi with fresh ratatouille (£6.50).

Three large slices of the Cypriot cheese were stacked on a mixture of aubergine, courgette and red and yellow peppers and surrounded by an excellent-tasting plum tomato sauce interspersed with black olive tapenade.

M's choice came from the mini specials menu, a delightful roasted butternut squash, beetroot and feta cheese salad (£6.25).

It was while I was eating my starter that my cover was blown. I'd met Ian when he was at the Fahrenheit restaurant in Wath but when a woman took our order – I later found out it was his wife – I thought he might well be having a night off. Not so. Once seen, never forgotten!

Apart from desserts, the one thing I'm a sucker for is bubble and squeak. It goes back to my childhood and when it's flagged up I invariably end up selecting that dish.

In this instance it was thick slices of chicken or, to be more precise, roasted breast of Yorkshire grain-fed chicken (£15.95), served up on the aforementioned bubble and squeak – a little crisper on the outside next time, please Lisa – with roasted cherry tomatoes and a separate jug of luscious, creamy Chardonnay sauce.

M decided against the pork tenderloin (£16.50), the cannon of lamb (£16.75), Moroccan vegetable tagine (£15.95) and 28-day-aged fillet of Yorkshire beef, the most expensive at £21.95, and chose the sea bass (£16.95).

The well-cooked pan-seared fillet was served on top of creamy mashed potato, with roasted red and yellow peppers and slices of chorizo sausage. We had a separate dish of broccoli, carrots and sugar snaps so there was no need for any side orders.

The hefty wine list is impressive with prices ranging from £14 to around £30 and eight of them are available by the glass. I chose a small glass of the Italian Pinot Grigio (£4.50) while M went for the Aussie Unoaked Chardonnay which was 50p cheaper.

Desserts may seem a trifle expensive at between £5.95 and £8.50 – you can have a taster platter for two for £10.50 – but they're worth every penny. Blueberries are supposedly one of the 'superfoods,' although, maybe not on top of a rich, wonderfully textured baked cheesecake! I also had some extra ones on the side with a thin shortbread crisp curl and a separate pot of vanilla pod ice cream.

M's plum and almond tart was equally delicious – an individual tart with a tangy plum compote and a separate jug of vanilla-infused custard (£6).

A cappuccino (£2.50) and a caffe mocha, with its own Belgian chocolate stir-in stick (£2.80), rounded off a very enjoyable fine dining experience.

The total food bill came to £57.60.

Verdict: Fine dining has come to Mexborough and I'm impressed. Not the most extensive menu but there's no hype and the food certainly delivers on quality and presentation, while the service is unobtrusive and friendly.

Opening times: Thursday 6-9pm (last food orders); Friday and Saturday 6- 9.30pm.

Reeds Fine Dining at the Pastures Hotel, Mexborough. Telephone 01709 572737.