THE undisputed local star of the latest Michelin Guide is the Druid Inn at Birchover – the only newcomer in the area to be awarded a coveted Bib Gourmand.
And success tastes all the sweeter for chefs Michael and Bryan Thompson because this is the first accolade they have won in their own name.
As accomplished chefs at Fischer's Baslow Hall and Thyme in Sheffield among others, the brothers are no strangers to restaurant industry honours. But winning AA rosettes and Michelin stars is not nearly so satisfying when it's someone else's name over the door.
Now they have an official endorsement in their own right, they could sit back and relax. But that's not the Thompson way.
Instead of putting their feet up, they are plotting to launch an empire from the quiet Peak District backwater.
Ambitious plans are afoot, starting with the revamped George Hotel in Buxton. The company behind the Crescent hotel and spa project is reopening the place this summer with Michael in charge of the kitchen.
Not to be outdone, Bryan, a talented pastry chef, is in the throes of launching a puddings service, supplying mouthwatering desserts to other restaurants in the area.
"How are we going to find time? Well, you have to, don't you," says Michael. "If you've got an interest in what you're doing, it's another challenge to look forward to. We like to be busy – it's very quiet out here after working in the middle of Sheffield."
That's not to say the Druid Inn will be neglected. Having been involved with the Peak District's first gastro-pub since it opened three years ago, they have every intention of continuing to build on its reputation. And that includes running the kitchen: they still do all the cooking themselves, with the help of one other chef.
"We're both a similar nature," says Bryan, the older by four years. "We know how each other work and we know what needs doing, so we don't need to talk. But it's good to have someone to bounce ideas off."
He set the pace, training at High Peak catering college and securing a job at the prestigious Bishopstrow House Hotel.
Michael – who was heading for a footballing career, playing for Sheffield United, Matlock and Chesterfield – was scathing about his brother's achievements.
"I used to take the mick out of him until I developed cartilage problems.
No-one was interested after that, so I decided to train as a chef instead!"
It has proved a winning decision, particularly since 2006 when the brothers took over the Druid in partnership with their parents, Brenda and Eric, who used to run the Courtyard Café at Hope.
The menus range from deli-style sandwiches and set meals at lunchtime (two courses £14) to a contemporary à la carte or a four-course gourmet dinner (£35).
See all restaurants reviewed by the Sheffield TelegraphThey also run regular evening events and an invitation to sample the newly-Michelin-rated cooking at a seasonal gourmet night sounded too tempting to miss.
We arrive in time to enjoy a glass of fizz in the cosy bar, then it's up to the first-floor restaurant and a table overlooking the spectacular Peak District hills.
The Druid may have a contemporary outlook but it adopts traditional values and the pristine white napkins are starched to hospital matron perfection.
First up is home-baked bread – moist walnut and fragrant rosemary focaccia – closely followed by langoustine and crab bisque.
The hallmark of quality cooking is balance and this is spot on. A harmony of fish, lemongrass, chilli, coriander and ginger, it somehow manages to achieve that fine line between subtlety and intensity. Presentation is quirky, in an oversize teacup, though eating soup with a teaspoon is a challenge even for the patient eater.
Next comes roasted quail. I always think these miniature birds are hard work for little reward, so the high point for me is the accompanying asparagus spears, cepes and musky artichoke and truffle foam.
Kitchen disasters can happen even to top chefs and terrine of fresh sea trout was nearly a disaster when the fish turned up late. The difference, of course, is in how you cope and Michael turned this into a triumph of not-quite-set quenelles, with creme fraiche, caviar and a masterful jelly-cube of tomato and basil essence.
Assiette of duck comprises a tender confit of leg, juicy pink breast steak and a neat little wellington wrapped in Bryan's trademark crisp pastry.
Seven courses may sound like a marathon food fest but these little nuggets of flavour simply melt away.
Write your own review of any Sheffield restaurant or pubIt's amazing how time passes when you're enjoying yourself and the evening sun has given way to starlight by the time we reach the sweet courses.
Lemon crème brulée is creamy and crisp topped with a mini scoop of beautifully sharp lemon sorbet and matching limoncello madeleine.
And there's more – it's followed by light-as-a-feather hot chocolate fondant with white chocolate sorbet.
We finish the meal with a cafétière of coffee... and fudge.
Gourmet dinner is £45 per head including sparkling wine on arrival.
The next Druid special is a Best of British food and drink night on June 19.
Verdict: This seven-course showcase is ample proof, if needed, that the Druid's Michelin status is richly deserved.
Open: Food served daily 12-2.30pm, Sun until 3pm, Mon- Thurs 6pm-9pm, Sat until 9.30pm, Sun evening closed.
The Druid Inn, Main Street, Birchover, near Matlock (01629 650 302)
The full article contains 938 words and appears in Sheffield Telegraph newspaper.