The Walnut Club Champagne Bar & Grill was always going to be different – not least because of its unlikely location. And the reality is unlike anything else Sheffield has to offer.

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It's hard to describe… somewhere between a stage set and a lightbox. It's swanky; it's smart; it's a glowing theatre where the city's glitterati and cognoscenti will want to see and be seen. And, surprisingly, we find that we fit in too.

The place is aimed at over-25s and is unashamedly upmarket. But staff are friendly, the atmosphere is relaxed and prices are eminently reasonable.

Hype so often leads to anticlimax and this long-awaited addition to Ecclesall Road could have fallen horribly flat. But the city's first true champagne bar is positively fizzing with energy.

The walls are of frosted glass, backlit with soft pink and blue. The focal point is a vast central bar of crackled glass, sparkling with shards of reflected light and crowned by three glittering chandeliers recessed into the ceiling.

There's a 'private' function area, separated by curtains of white silk fringing; a curvy retro-style loveseat dominates one corner. Beyond the bar is a row of chic black leather horseshoe banquettes, each set around a table of flourescent glass with a sunken ice-bucket in the centre.

It's grown-up and sophisticated, but the place has a distinctive buzz. A DJ spins a soundtrack of Motown, soul and funk, and fast-moving images of a New York street scene play on a huge screen (used for business seminars by day).

"Sheffield keeps trying to compare itself with Manchester and Leeds, but this is more like a New York loft," says owner Richard Mills, who has researched champagne bars around the globe since deciding this was what his home town needed.

He has brought together the best of what he found and mixed it with some of his own ideas, including an all-organic menu pioneered at his Walnut Club bar and restaurant in Hathersage.
It's evidently an appealing formula – he has already been approached by venture capitalists wanting to market the brand nationwide.

"It's a compliment that, out of all the country, they come to us as a brand leader," says Richard. But he has no intention of selling out.

"I want to keep my own identity – I'm from Sheffield and my passion is the enjoyment of doing this."

Which is impressive stuff, coming from an ambitious lad who grew up at Kelvin Flats.

Champagne, as you might expect, is top of the drinks list: a choice of 23, starting at £29.50 a bottle (£7.50 a glass). They sold more than 150 bottles in the first weekend, including four of vintage Krug at £230 a time.

There is also an impressive array of cocktails (£6.50) and a decent wine list, from £13.85 for a Chilean cabernet sauvignon. We stick to a single glass of champagne and then put the red to the test - it's great, with a good jammy flavour.

The menu has been devised by Nick Wilson, acclaimed executive chef at the Walnut Club in Hathersage, in partnership with Paul Soczowka, who is moving over to become head chef of the new bar and grill.

Everything is organic or wild, it's all freshly made on the premises, and what a bonus to discover top-notch value, as opposed to top-notch prices.

Choose from a five-ten-five menu (starters and desserts for £5, main courses £10), various grills, or a selection of tapas-style platters at £5 each – headings include Asian, Far Eastern, North African, American and vegetarian.

There are olives on the table and we order doughy fresh bread and oils to go with them.

Starters of chicken liver parfait and smoked salmon launch us into a meal that's every bit as good as Nick's reputation.

The pâté is rich and velvety smooth, with toasted rye bread and a dollop of sweet pear and saffron chutney. Salmon comes with rocket, olives and a quenelle of creamy guacamole.

On to mains: crisp slow-roasted pork has all the gutsy flavour and texture of a hog roast. It contrasts well with creamed potatoes, braised red cabbage and a glorious caramelised apple and vanilla compote.

I go for pheasant – light, low fat, and lacking the smelly pungence of richer game birds. It's moist and succulent, nestling on a bed of shredded Gascon cabbage and braised lentils.

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Desserts round off the meal nicely: creamy baked cheesecake for him, poached fruits with apricot sorbet for me.

Dinner for two, excluding drinks and service, is £42.75.

Anyone can book a table, but you can't walk in off the street unless you're a member. Membership is free.

Verdict: A sparkling new addition to the city's social scene - out-of-this-world venue with down-to-earth prices.

Open: daily, noon to 11.30pm. During the day, the frosted glass panels are drawn back to flood the space with natural light; computer points and wi-fi service make it a perfect place for business meetings and seminars.

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The Walnut Club Champagne Bar & Grill, 557 Ecclesall Road, Sheffield (0114) 267 6566