The makings of a hoped-for culinary success story.

Greg Dyke, former Director General of the BBC, and Sheffield-based Marcus Hall are the men in question and together they're out to make Mosborough Hall Hotel a veritable box of delights.

Apparently Dyke was so taken by the place during a visit to the area that he decided to buy it and invested a few million quid into combining the old with the new.

As a result Darcy's Brasserie was added to the historic building, which now comes under the Great Western banner, along with a chic cocktail bar and lounge.

Enter executive head chef Marcus to put his undoubted stamp on the food. He originally made his mark at the Michelin-starred Sydney Regional Hotel during a three-and-a-half year stint Down Under, before he returned to this country and gained further success at the Drunken Duck at Ambleside – voted the second-best gastro hotel in England – and the East Lodge at Rowsley.

Marcus joined the Mosborough Hall revolution towards the end of the revamp and had his six-strong team of chefs in place in time for the grand opening in May. Rosettes will hopefully follow, as will petits fours and appetizers, but for the moment he's adamant there'll be no gung-ho approach. Steady is the word.

When it comes to food the emphasis is very much on good quality, fresh and, as far as possible, locally produced.

It all translates to innovative dishes – he's ditched his opening menu for one that's more complex and it starts tonight.

Among the starters are a Tasting of Seafood which incorporates white and brown crab, poached salmon ballantine, smoked salmon and prawn roll and a tempura oyster for £10.95, whole roasted quail (£9.25), pressed rabbit and pork terrine (£8.75) and Derbyshire black pudding with saute potatoes and quail eggs (£5.95).

The creative thinking extends to the mains and desserts. There's a Taste of Chatsworth Lamb with mini shepherd's pie, a mini rack of lamb and braised shoulder (£16.95), roast loin of Derbyshire venison (£18.95), roast saddle and leg of wild rabbit (£15.95) and pan seared wild cod (£14.95).

A trio of British 'classics' heads the desserts in the shape of jam roly poly, sherry trifle and sticky toffee pudding with schoolboy custard (£4.95).

The three-course dinner menu de jour remains at £19.95, although choice is restricted to two.

We decided that in these credit-crunching times M would have the set menu and I would chose from the a la carte, a democratic decision (honest!).

Within minutes of checking out the modern decor – cream walls, 'encased' chandeliers and black tables with black runners and high-backed chairs upholstered in burgundy and minky pink – we were drawn into the guessing game of paintings of various Sheffield artists on the walls.

I clocked Jarvis Cocker and was it Richard Hawley? I thought there was a young Dave Berry, only for a waitress to inform me it was Alex from the Arctic Monkeys.

After that we drew a blank…

Our pop quiz ended with the arrival of a warm mini loaf – Marcus uses stone-milled flour – served on a slate with a pot of butter. Beware, it's very, very moreish.

Thoughts of a fricassee of snails, fresh mussels or king scallops for starters were overlooked for what proved to be a very tasty red mullet risotto (£7.50). The small, chunky fillet nestled on a creamy cod, spring onion and pearl barley risotto with a decorative sweet and sour pepper coulis.

M had the smoked salmon in preference to the soup, two good-sized pieces sprinkled with capers and a tangy lemon dressing. It was accompanied by two slices of onion bread but by now she'd really got a taste for the mini loaf.

My main course was a 'first' – belly pork with langoustines (£14.50). An unusual combination but it was worth it for the artistic presentation: three separate oblongs of succulent, slow roasted pork belly complete with superb crackling, two topped with fondant mashed potato and the other with crushed peas, with two large langoustines placed either side in a madeira jus.

Side orders were extra (£1.95) but I couldn't resist the fat chips or the sauteed French beans with pancetta and mustard seed, both of which were served in small individual copper pans.

M went in favour of the pan roasted chicken over the beef bourguignon and found it to be tender and tasty while crispy on the outside. It was set on a bed of green beans with a small mound of mashed potato and a wild mushroom creamy sauce.

There's an impressive wine list of 15 whites, 15 reds and two rose, with prices ranging from £13.50 to £31, four of which are also available by the glass (£3.30 small, £4.50 large). For those not feeling the credit crunch there's a selection of eight Champagne and sparkling wines, the most expensive being a £250 bottle of Louis Roederer Cristal. We put our one unit to good use with two small glasses of Chilean Merlot (£3.60).

Marcus likes his individual copper pans as I was treated to another which housed my apple and plum crumble dessert (£5.75). A real autumnal burst of flavour accompanied by a scoop of toasted almond ice cream.

M's light and fluffy lemon souffle – the alternative was the cheese board – was served in a mini tea cup and came complete with sliced strawberries plus vanilla ice cream with a hint-of-basil.

Our total food bill, including two cappucinos (£2.25 each), came to £56.10.

Verdict: a bit of Hall right. Dishes conjure up the best of everything and Marcus and co could really be on to a winner. Only time will tell.

Food served: open for lunch (bar snacks available) and dinner seven days a week. Hi-Life card can be used Monday to Thursday.

Mosborough Hall Hotel, High Street, Mosborough; telephone 0114 2484353. It boasts 44 bedrooms and corporate and wedding packages are available.



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