I can't believe it's a year since the Sicilian 'Godfather' of cooking and his wife Pam called time on Mamma Mia in Langsett Road, Hillsborough and left it in the capable hands of Arjan and Steph Prenga.

They've already received a letter from Pepe and Pam congratulating them on their anniversary and informing them they're now making a new life in Spain. It would be worth the air fare alone to see fast-talking Pepe showing the Spanish how to cook the proper, ie Sicilian, way.

Time to call in on the unsuspecting duo. There has been a bit of a role reversal in that Steph is the more gregarious of the two while her Sicilian-born husband contents himself in the kitchen, although he still tries to get the odd word in here and there.

Arjan has put his own mark on the menu and like his predecessor, he's never happier than when he's bringing the traditional taste of his homeland to downtown Sheffield, not least the spicy meat balls of which legends were made.

Word is spreading fast. They've already had to turn people away on a number of occasions so it's advisable to book, especially on Fridays and Saturdays.

It's a good mix of pasta (either starter or main) and pizza plus various chicken dishes, steaks and seafood while Arjan's definitive specials board is also there from which Steph, like Pam, recites 'as best she can.'

"You never know what you might get," she quips, "it could be a total surprise!"

Starters, which range from £2.70 to £4.50, are plentiful but that's largely irrelevant as both of us want to check out the Palle di Pepe – meatballs to you and me. In the end M wins the vote and I settle for the Mozzarella Capri from the board. Both dishes are priced up at £4.50.

The meatballs are just like Pepe used to make but hotter. They arrive in a rich, spicy tomato sauce that packs a real punch. Plenty of oomph but not overpowering. I take time out to try one and then mop up that lovely sauce with some French bread.

My starter is much more easy-going. Three good-sized discs of mozzarella on warm bruschetta – you can have it cold if you prefer – sprinkled with basil and served with a hefty salad garnish, which would have benefited from a little dressing.

Main courses should suit all tastes and pockets. The eight pasta dishes hover around the £7 mark, while a variety of pizzas range from £5.50 to just under £8 for the calzone. Extra toppings cost 50p each.

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Steaks offer a choice of sirloin (£12.80) or fillet (£15) – there's even a steak Pepe – and there are four seafood options (around £13) and four chicken (just over a tenner) to choose from.

We decide on two of Arjan's specials, the bistecca d'aulo (£13.20) and the salmone del duca (£12.90). There's a choice with the bistecca – sirloin steak – with or without a chilli topping.
I go for it.

The good-sized steak was well cooked in wine with tomatoes, garlic, mushrooms and mixed peppers, while the spicy chilli certainly added more than a little heat.

M's thick, chunky wedge of salmon was perfectly cooked in a tomato, white wine and garlic sauce with a dash of cream and topped with fresh asparagus.

They were served with some cracking sauté potatoes and a selection of carrots, broccoli and cauliflower in cheese sauce.

Wine is great value. I don't know of many other places where you can get a litre bottle of house red – in this instance a very drinkable Italian merlot – for £8.80 plus three white wines for a similar price.

If you want to impress the lady, then you can can always splash out £12 for a bottle of Chianti Classico.

Another Pepe reminder is on the desserts menu – pancake and ice cream with hot chocolate sauce (£3.50). I discover that Steph makes a mean tiramasu but unfortunately it's not available on the night we go.

So pancake it is and it doesn't disappoint, even though I prefer mine warm. M decides she's had enough and then within minutes takes three scoops of lemon sorbet on board (£2.80).

Our food bill with two cappuccinos (£3.60) came to £45.

Verdict: No worries Pepe, Mamma Mia is in good hands. A touch of authentic Sicilian which also offers something a little different but word is spreading fast so it's advisable to book, especially on Fridays and Saturdays.

Opening times: Tuesday to Thursday 6.30-10pm (last orders); Friday and Saturday 6.30-10.30 (last orders). Closed Sundays and Mondays but available for private parties on either day.

Pizzeria Mamma Mia, 378-380 Langsett Road, Hillsborough. Tel: 0114 2325040.