For restaurateur Ala Uddin that time has come – bringing a crisp new look, a contemporary menu and an influx of customers that most city centre venues can only dream of.

Almas Indian Brasserie has occupied a niche in the heart of leafy Dore for more than a decade now, serving up a menu of classic curries and tandoori dishes to appreciative locals.

But a recent makeover instigated by sons Naz and Bodrul has taken the business to a new level and word is spreading.

Gone are the old two-level dining area, the traditional Indian decor and the well-worn menu. In their place are fresh, neutral colours, a new lounge bar and the kind of contemporary food that would tempt even the most delicate of palates.

Ala Uddin has no shortage of experience. He opened his first business in Sharrowvale Road 24 years ago and ran the popular Bekash in Ecclesall Road for 12 years.

When it came to revamping Almas he turned to Naz, who has already tested the formula at his own city centre restaurant, the Saffron Club in the old Glossop Road baths.

He and brother Bodrul dispatched their father to his native Bangladesh for a month – the first holiday he'd had in ten years – and set about transforming the Dore brasserie.

It was a radical move but if the proof of the pudding is in the eating, then it would explain why the place is so packed on a Wednesday evening that we are lucky to secure a table at all.

We settle into a corner, admiring the white marble-blocked feature wall, the big, bright canvases and the framed sari that provides the only clue to the restaurant's theme.

Overlooking the village church, Almas, with its pristine table linen and stylish high-backed chairs, could otherwise be a contemporary bistro in the best English tradition. Every table has its own flickering candle but not one is under a stainless steel dish warmer.

The new menu also bears the Naz hallmark, although it has been drawn up in consultation with head chef and business partner Gulam Robbani.

The old favourites remain, all made with quality ingredients and consummate skill, but the big difference is a new 'evolved' section.

Quite what that means Ala Uddin is not sure, but he's happy to trust his sons' judgement. What it adds up to is innovative cooking and a variety of main courses that far exceeds the expectations of the average Indian restaurant.

His best-seller is one such dish: Haddi lubya, or lamb shank slow-cooked with kidney beans in a thick sauce.

Other specialities include duck in a fruity plum sauce (available only to those who dine 'in'), pan-fried fillet of tilapia with a tomato, chilli and onion salsa and mussels in a tomato and citrus broth, served with naan.

Mouths watering, we make our choice, beginning with the 'brasserie selection' – a plate of mixed starters that we hope will give us a taste of the delights on offer.



Highlights are murgh tikka, classic tandoori-cooked pieces of chicken in spiced yoghurt, and macchi bite, chunks of succulent floured and fried salmon fillet.

There's also onion bhaji, vegetable samosa, onion and cucumber raita dip and a crisp salad dressed with a wicked coriander and chilli pesto – silky smooth but with enough of a kick to boot you out of that appreciative reverie.

We wash it down with sparkling mineral water (me) and Cobra beer (him), although a wine list is available.

The water comes complete with orange slices and a strawberry, another Naz touch, methinks. A chap at the next table (polishing off a bottle of Chateauneuf) observes: "I like strawberries... I've just never had one floating in my drink before!" It appropriately summarises the restaurant: different but good.

I go for the duck in plum sauce, a kind of Indian take on the classic Chinese combination. It's sublime: fruity, as promised, with only the merest hint of spice. It's the perfect dish for someone who prefers to taste their food than to fight the distractions of watering eyes, burning mouth and runny nose.

He goes for gosht deli: moist chunks of lamb cooked in a medium-spiced sauce of peppers, onion, garlic and ginger. We share a bowl of golden pilau rice and a crisp-blistered peshwari naan with just enough fluffy coconut and green sultana filling.

So far, so good, and let's be honest: who really needs dessert after an Indian meal? But this is where Almas falls down. The sweet menu offers the all-too-typical Indian selection of bought-in ice creams and very little else.

We ask if gulab jaman is home-made: "Sorry, we've none in stock," we're told – a dead giveaway.

So we share a pistachio kulfi, which resembles a green Dalek but tastes fine, and finish our meal with cups of unremarkable coffee.

Dinner for two, excluding drinks and service, is a top-value £33.95.

Verdict: A modern take on authentic Indian food in a leafy city suburb. Superb cuisine at exceptional value; booking recommended.

Open: Seven days a week, 6pm to 11pm, from 5.30pm at weekends.

Almas Indian Brasserie, 34-36 High Street, Dore, Sheffield. (0114) 262 0883.

MORE:
Listings Guide
Arts Guide
Film Guide
Theatre and Events
Music Guide