The revamped venue is the perfect antidote for rain-lashed city dwellers who have all but forgotten the pleasures of sultry heat, lively tempo and food that sets the tastebuds tangoing.

Okay, so it's not Sao Paolo's DOM, and it doesn't make any pretension towards haute cuisine. But's it's vibrant, it's fun and for those who yearn for a taste of sunshine, it's probably the next best thing.

The West One bar and restaurant has just undergone a £100,000 make-over – the first major change since it opened five years ago.

In those days Las Iguanas was seen as a pioneer of the burgeoning up-town leisure scene, blazing a trail at the city centre plaza with its contemporary design, exotic menu and slick service.

That hasn't changed, except that the rest of the city has caught up with it. But, like all good businesses, the secret is to stay ahead of the crowd and it was clearly time for a new look.

The biggest change is in the space itself. Lofty ceilings are a feature of the entire West One development – but no longer at Las Iguanas.

The idea, we're told, was to give the restaurant a more cosy feel, and the most obvious way of doing that was to paint the walls in shades of hot paprika and bring down the ceiling.

At the same time, the bar space was opened up, with booths for diners who want a more intimate feel, and a 'hut' area at the back where larger groups can get down to the sound of the heady salsa beat. New mosaic floors, fringed by palms and bamboo, aim to conjure up a feel of the Copa Cabana beach.

The new look has gone down well, says general manager Darren Noyland, who joined the company a year ago, and whose experience ranges from Pizza Hut to gastro pubs.

He said: "Our numbers have gone up and customer feedback has been amazing. Regulars really love the new lower roofing and the relocation of our 12ft mirror. New guests like the bright fabrics, lively Latin music and the rustic feel that takes it away from branded style of other restaurants."

Las Iguanas may be part of a chain – there are around 20 across the UK – but it is still run by Ajith Jaya Wickrema and Eren Ali, who founded it in Bristol in 1991.

That doesn't mean they rely on a central kitchen.

"The only things that are bought in are the banoffi pie, the cheesecake and the tortillas, everything else is made fresh and cooked to order on the premises. It's something we are very proud of," we're told.

Darren has a hand in deciding the menu, along with head chef Ram Negi, changing the dishes according to season and demand.

The new winter menu is now available, including a lunch and early evening selection (available until 6.30pm) with one course for £6.90 or two for £7.90.

The à la carte darts lizard-like from Argentinian burgers, Mexican enchiladas and fajitas to Brazilian moqueca, spicy beef casserole and salads.

There's also the ubiquitous patatas bravas, bread and nibbles, and a whole range of tapas.

Cocktails are a speciality – particularly those made with cachaça produced at the company's own sugar cane plantation in Rio. But one of us has to drive home, so we opt for a bottle of fruity Chilean merlot at a top value £9.50 a bottle, because it's happy hour.

That puts us in mellow mood for the rest of the meal, which has its ups and downs.

Seviche is thin slices of raw tuna, salmon and crayfish, 'cooked' in a piquant marinade of lemon juice, mango and ginger. It works well with a salad of peppery rocket and endive spears (curiously sticking out on one side of the dish like a pair of horns).

Pato taquito is a Tex-Mex take on Chinese duck pancakes. A chargrilled toritilla is filled with shredded duck, caramelised onion and sweet chilli jam: "Hot, but not enough to burn on the way down," I'm told.

Chargrilled chicken fillet sounded great, but the chef had taken his chargrilling too seriously. The flavour was good, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you have a penchant for tasty shoe leather. It came with cassava fries – like chewy chips – and a salad of rocket and tomatoes.

My fajitas were served Texas-style, with a sizzling skillet of duck breast, peppers and onions, little pots of spiced plum salsa, soured cream, pickles and guacamole, and a basket of warm tortillas. It's fun food; tasty, sociable and free from pretension.

Desserts have improved since our last visit and we tucked into manjar (a Brazilian classic of coconut milk blancmange topped with juicy baked plums) and brevas – black figs stuffed with sticky toffee, like an inside-out toffee apple.

Including cups of very good coffee, but excluding wine and service, dinner for two was £47.90.

Verdict: Shimmy on down for a leisurely meal and a taste of Latin American sunshine, at any time of year.

Open: noon daily until 11pm Monday-Thursday, 11.30pm Friday-Saturday, 10.30pm Sunday.

Las Iguanas, West One, Fitzwilliam Street, Sheffield (0114) 2521010.

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