So what a refreshing change to find one that demolishes all these accusations – and is smack bang in the city centre to boot.

Crystal, a cutting-edge venue created in an old scissor works, has always had an undeniable 'wow' factor. But since the novelty wore off, it hasn't had much of a restaurant to speak of – until now.

The arrival of the award-winning Walnut Club team to take over the dining experience has sharpened up the operation and revived the venue's sophisticated upper-floor appeal.

It's a marriage made in heaven – a match of Sarkozy-Bruni perfection – in which a stylish setting is complemented by a solid reputation.

"The only reason we even considered it is because it's an amazing venue," says Walnut Club MD Richard Mills. "There's no other place like it in Sheffield."

The converted Carver Street scissor works was artfully converted into a bar, lounge and restaurant in 2005. Focal point of the ground floor bar, hidden behind its Grade II listed facade, is a central flagged courtyard topped by a glass roof.

The sumptuous first-floor VIP lounge (reserved for restaurant guests) overlooks the bar, making it an excellent vantage point for people-watching. The restaurant is on the top floor: an aesthetic blend of 500-year-old workshop and swanky New York loft.

The decor hasn't changed since the Walnut Club took over – it doesn't need to. Exposed brickwork, polished floorboards and ancient beams are burnished with a patina of centuries and highlighted by bold contemporary wallpaper in chocolate brown and black.

Huge conical garlands of red roses flank an ornate mirror above the bar while potted palms, soft lighting and comfy banquettes create a cosy, intimate feel. Waxing lyrical? I'd forgotten how much I love this place.

The menu is simple (some say overly so), based on the Walnut Club's successful formula, but it's tailored to demand.

"Before they had a fantastic, expensive menu but people didn't want it here; if that's what they want they'll go to Rafters or Fischers," says Mills. "People in town want good, honest, quality food."

The man in charge of ensuring they get it is new head chef Mike Bevan, a home-grown product of the Walnut Club. He was a kitchen porter until setting his sights on the chef's job three years ago and beginning his training under Nick Wilson (a protegé of JC Novelli).

Mike was promoted to sous-chef when the Walnut Club Champagne bar opened in Ecclesall Road and now has a chance to earn his head chef's whites at Crystal.

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The accent is on seasonal, organic, locally-sourced food, with a choice of six to eight dishes for each course including vegan and gluten-free options. Main courses are £10, starters and desserts £5, plus a couple of higher-priced specials.

The wine list is comprehensive – house red or white is under £14 – there's also a well-stocked cocktail bar and the main bar on the ground floor.

Crystal is very much a city centre venue, so nobody bats an eyelid if diners stay on in the VIP lounge until the wee small hours, or abandon their dining companions and join dancers in the bar.

But we're here to sample the restaurant, so it's a relief to find 'greeter' Hayley at the door, showing diners straight up to the more refined heights of the second floor.

At these prices it's no surprise that bread and olives are extra; we settle for a bottle of flowery Italian sangiovese at £14.

My companion tucks into velvety smooth chicken liver parfait, thickly spread on toasted rye bread. It's seriously good, with a winsome pear and saffron chutney that's fruity and tangy with just the right hint of sweetness.

My smoked salmon is fine, rescued from indifference by a peppery salad of dressed rocket, a dollop of herby soured cream and some little cubes of beetroot.

Main courses range from tarted-up versions of the classics – handmade beefburger with focaccia roll and hand-cut chips, Caesar salad with chicken breast and parmesan shavings – to more unusual dishes such as goat's cheese and walnut ravioli, glazed tofu kebab and slow-roasted crispy pork.

Good beefy Yorkshire sausages are fairly bursting with flavour, nestled on a bed of surprisingly subtle horseradish mash, with chunks of glazed carrot and a rich claret-fortified jus.

Thai salmon fishcakes could be firmer inside their fried breadcrumb shell but both texture and flavour are perked up by some crunchy spring onions and a good shake of aromatic coriander. A criss-cross pile of hand-cut chips – the real thing – and a pot of sweet chilli jam add the finishing touch.

Hot chocolate fondant with cream and cherry compote is out of the question by this time, so we order raspberry crème brulée and poached tropical fruit salad: an unusual combination of grapefruit, blueberry, kiwi, fig, pineapple and physalis poached in spicy, aniseed-spiked juice, topped with a scoop of passionfruit sorbet. Cool, refreshing and delicious.

Excellent coffee completes the meal; dinner for two, excluding wine and service, is £44.60.

Verdict: good food, professional service and great value in a really classy setting. This marriage or quality and style is exactly what the city centre needs.

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Open: Friday and Saturday evenings from 7pm, last orders 11.30pm; functions by arrangement

The Walnut Club at Crystal, 22-32 Carver Street, Sheffield (0114) 267 6566.

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