THEY started out as a curious hybrid, haunt of yuppies, business types and social climbers, but the gastro-pub has come of age.

These days the genre is acknowledged for its blend of bonhomie, panache and culinary prowess – and as a breeding ground for top quality chefs who aspire to a place of their own.

The fact is that any chef who can cut the mustard wants the freedom to be his own boss. Overheads and running costs usually preclude a traditional restaurant but managing a bar is another matter altogether.

The result, in recent years, has been a growing number of gastro-pubs that offer fine dining in contemporary surroundings – without the stuffiness that so often accompanies top quality food.

This area has a good selection, from the Milestone at Kelham Island and the Cricket at Totley to the Chequers at Froggat and the Druid Inn at Birchover. The latest addition to their ranks is the Samuel Fox Country Inn at Bradwell.

Formerly the run-down New Bass Inn, it now stands resplendent with a new image, new managers and four new letting rooms. But as hotels go it's a far cry from the boutique splendour of the Leopold in Sheffield city centre, where manager Charlie Curran was head chef until a few weeks ago.

Charlie admits that his new role is a step change from what he's used to but he's up for the challenge – and he's revelling in the freedom that goes with the territory.

He began his career in Leeds and made his mark when he became head chef for Brian Turner, cooking to three AA rosette standard at the Knightsbridge restaurant. He came to Sheffield as head chef at 543 Ecclesall Road and then helped to launch the Leopold before deciding the time had come to branch out on his own.

The other half of the partnership is Kelly Ware, an experienced front-of-house manager who worked at 543 and Platillos before throwing herself into the new venture.

Running a country inn is a huge step for her, too: "We were both scared to death," she says. "Bradwell's a pretty village but it's a lot different to Sheffield.

"But I've got to say I'm getting a real buzz out of it and, ten weeks in, we're so glad we've done it. It means a lot when people say they've enjoyed it and they want to come back."

The inn was closed for nearly a year after being taken over by the team who own the Riverside at Ashford in the Water and the Monsal Head Hotel.

The bar remains but otherwise the place is unrecognisable – a stylish blend of creamy walls, burnished wood and wicker chairs that would look more at home in a conservatory than a local boozer. Our only black mark is a lack of intimacy but that could be easily corrected with some background music, a dimmer switch and a few candles.

It is very definitely a restaurant with a bar rather than a pub that serves food, although real ales are a speciality (including locally brewed Alton and Thornbridge) and there's plenty of room for those who simply want a pint.

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"There's no darts and dominoes or two meals for a fiver but everyone's welcome and people seem to like it," says Kelly.

Charlie agrees: "We want the place to be nice and friendly, not staid; a place where people can drop in for a beer and a bowl of soup or settle down for three courses with wine."

His menu is essentially British, executed with the flair which has earned him his reputation. There's ham hock terrine, fresh seared tuna, crisp belly pork and roasted red pepper risotto.

The wine list is impressive, ranging from £13.50 to £43 – Charlie may still be learning cellar skills but he knows a thing or two about wine. We choose a bottle of Vista Flores, a soft, fruity blend of malbec and sangiovese (£13.50).

Soup of the day is roasted red pepper and tomato: a tangy combination with great flavour and a nice, light texture. There's a whole basket of bread and a pot of soft butter to go with it.

Goats cheese mousse arrives looking more like an ice cream wafer: two scoops, sandwiched between flaky pasta crisps. It's thick, creamy and wonderfully rich, artfully enhanced by swirls of pesto and balsamic syrup and tastefully complemented by the accompanying red onion relish.

Slow-braised shoulder of lamb (Charlie's best seller) is boned and rolled into a cylinder of exquisitely tender meat with a hint of rosemary. Buttery mashed potato and savoy cabbage, annointed with cream, complete the dish. This is not the place for weight-watchers.

Duck leg from the specials menu is meaty and succulent with a good, gamey flavour. It comes with creamed potato, green beans and sweet-sour red cabbage which is the perfect foil. We share a side order of veg: crisp mangetout, carrots and cauliflower.

Dessert is out of the question for me but my companion dutifully orders gin and lime posset – an ambrosial combination that manages to be light, intense and cuts through the cream as a good palate-cleanser should. The hazelnut biscotti are wholly unnecessary but we eat them anyway.

Coffee completes the meal (we forego the Thornton's chocolates). Dinner for two, excluding wine and service, is £39.70.

Verdict: gourmet food at pub prices – the foodie's dream – and anyone who over-indulges can stay the night…

Open: 12-2.30pm and 6-9.30pm Mon-Fri; 12-9.30pm Sat; 12-4pm Sun – £15 for a 3-course lunch.

Samuel Fox Country Inn, Stretfield Road, Bradwell, Hope Valley (01433) 623 770.

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