FOOD REVIEW: The Parish Oven, Worksop Road, Thorpe Salvin
THORPE Salvin is synonymous with Britain in Bloom. It's got its fair share of imposing houses, some complete with swimming pool, but as a village there's no denying it has got flower power for a good five months of the year.
The top B in B accolade has come its way and as one astute judge noted, in the true spirit of the British village, everything appears to happen in the local hostelry or the church.
While the rectangular-towered church can go back centuries - it has a Saxon doorway - the same can't be said of the pub, which in architectural terms is a mere 'spring chicken.'
I remember the Parish Oven being built in 1972, on a site of historical importance where a farmhouse and the village's central baking oven once stood.
It got a rather mixed reception – the majority of people thought it was too modern-looking – but whether the design is good, bad or indifferent is largely irrelevant, it's what's going on inside that really matters.
The Parish Oven has always been a foodie pub and current proprietor-cum-head-chef Graham Kirkland and his wife Carol, who takes charge of front of house duties, are more than happy to continue the theme.
They've been there for two years and in that time Graham has concocted a locally sourced to-suit-all-tastes menu, backed up by an impressive specials board, plus a two-for-one steak night on a Wednesday and a very popular Sunday carvery.
As a symbol to the former 'Oven' there's an old style range in the bar area and a matt black 'reproduction' in the restaurant, which acts as a divider. There's a traditional feel, with beamed ceiling, patterned
carpets and wooden tables and chairs alongside patterned bench seating.
Sirloin steak stuffed with garlic butter prawns and a salmon and steak sizzler with hot chilli sauce head the specials at 11.95 while a sweet onion and stilton ribeye steak is on the board for 10.95.
There are a number of chicken dishes - stone baked with stilton (8.45), lime chilli (7.95) and ovenbaked with a sweet onion curried chutney ( 7.95) - plus steak pie and beef lasagne (both 6.95) and a mint and mustard lamb shank (9.95).
Vegetarians are also well catered for with a mushroom and almond gratin, courgette and brie bake and mushroom
carbonara all at 7.95 and a spinach, cherry tomato and mozzarella pudding for an extra 50p.
Despite the good-sized list, our choices came from the printed menu. Of the seven starters on offer, I settled for the chicken liver pate (4.55) while the warm baked goats cheese salad (5.25) got M's vote.
My pate was ultra smooth and tasty while a portion of the sweet onion curried chutney delivered a hefty, contrasting
kick. Disappointingly the warm ciabatta bread never materialised and was replaced by a slice of bread which wasn't warmed.
The delightfully tangy apricot and walnut chutney brought an extra dimension to the thick disc of warm goats cheese.
My main course then taught me a lesson – be precise when ordering food. I decided on the butter baked cod, topped with mozzarella and served with a mild course grain mustard sauce (9.35). So I was surprised when a large piece of cod in batter was put in front of me.
I had, of course, ordered cod, forgetting there was also a deep fried version available. Doh!
I could see the headline ... 'Fish caught out in cod piece mix up.'
It should have registered when I was asked if I wanted regular or large. I accepted full responsibilty, even though I received an apology from the ever-helpful waitress, and proceded to enjoy my 'new look' meal.
Flaky and perfectly cooked, it was another version of Cod Almighty on a plate and good value at 9.50 (regular 7.55).
M went for the apricot roasted duck with a rich plum sauce (12.55) and while the portion size was again very much on the plus side, it was predominantly wing and leg with very little breast meat.
Mains are served with a choice of dauphinoise potatoes, chips or new potatoes, salad or vegetables, plus, in my case, mushy peas. We chose the dauphinoise and the fresh-tasting carrots, broccoli and cauliflower cheese.
Two chicken dishes, pork loin, braised lamb shank and two further vegetarian dishes are also available from the menu while the grill includes a ribeye 'House Special,' a 12oz gammon steak, mixed grill, hickory smoked chicken and a salmon fillet.
Three 'House' selections features on the wine list at 10.45 along with five reds (13.45-14.45), three white (13.45) and two rose (13).
We settled for a large glass of Chilean chardonnay (4.05) and a small glass of Chilean merlot (3.05).
Desserts were a disappointment, not that we could have eaten one, as none of them were home-made although I was reliably informed that one is available on the Sunday carvery.
We finished off with a couple of filter coffees with cream (1.35 each).
The total food bill came to 31.85.
Verdict: Pride of the Parish? It's good, hearty, plate-busting pub grub that comes complete with a value-for-money sticker and efficient, friendly, fast service although I'd love to see a home-made dessert on the specials board.
Food served: Tuesday to Friday, noon - 2.00pm and 6.00-8.30pm; Saturday, noon - 1.30pm and 6.00-8.30pm; Sunday, noon-4.00pm (bookings advisable); closed for food on Monday but bar open from 5.30 to 11.00pm.
The Parish Oven, Worksop Road, Thorpe Salvin (easily accessible from Sheffield, Rotherham and Worksop); telephone 01909 770685.
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Weather for Sheffield
Wednesday 23 May 2012
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