Real quality at a price
PUTTING a name to a restaurant has always intrigued me.
Most have an association with the owner, region or the type of food on the menu - for me it would have to be Fishy's Plaice (how original) - but that's definitely not the case as far as Vasco's is concerned.
The restaurant-cum-lounge bar is the latest addition to Wickersley's ever-growing upmarket image. Trevor Dakin, who used to have an eaterie in the Rotherham-area village (Nino's) and also Hooton Lodge at Hooton Roberts, is the man behind the venture and admits they had problems agreeing on a suitable name ... until author Michael Crichton, he of Jurassic Park fame, came to the rescue. Trevor's a big fan of the writer and the first word from his latest book was the name of a character called ... Vasco.
The rest, as they say, is history.
Continuing the book theme, Sheffield-born head chef Peter Wilkinson is also an avid reader, of all things gastronomic ... and it shows. He's also 'absorbed' a fair amount from Richard Smith, Andy Gabbitas and Christian Zerco (check spelling) on his culinary travels but mostly he's self-taught. Peter's mantra is 'if it's in season let's use it' and he does just that, in an original and at times highly inventive way although both he and his second-in-command Jamie Woodhouse, won't shy away from 'tweaking' dishes if they feel they're not working.
See our Restaurant Guide for all restaurants reviewed by the Sheffield Telegraph
This is definitely a man who's happy in his kitchen, in this case an open one which enables him to get direct feedback (ouch) from the diners. He's content to let the freshly prepared food speak for itself and it does, loud and clear. The only quibble I would have is that it's a tad expensive but with cooking of this quality I can live with that.
Vasco's has a two tier set-up, lounge and wine bar on the ground floor with the restaurant upstairs. It has got a retro-contemporary feel with a bold, large black and white floral patterned wallpaper on one wall, high-backed upholstered chairs interspersed with red leather seating and solid wood tables.
We had the best seat in the house, a horseshoe-shaped leather upholstered sofa with a view out of the large window.
It's a six-of-the-best menu with the addition of a couple of main course 'specials' and an added bonus of homemade desserts which is far from the norm nowadays, although not altogether surprising in this case as Peter started off as a pastry chef.
We had a taste of things to come with a delicious complimentary fish soup served in a mini cup and saucer.
Starters ranged from 4.50 for the soup (in this instance butternut squash) to 9.95 for the hand dived Shetland scallops. I chose the almond crusted goat's cheese at 5.95, the sharpness of the cheese combining perfectly with the beetroot salad and pickled walnuts.
M just had to try the scallops. Now scallops with black pudding might not be to everyone's liking especially as you're paying just short of a tenner. No worries, for presentation or taste. Served on an oblong platter, the three large, succulent scallops were flash roasted, placed on a disc of black pudding and drizzled with truffle oil. She admitted they were the best she'd ever tasted ... and also the most expensive.
The main courses included a vegetarian option of marinated portobello mushrooms (13.95), chicken stuffed with oyster mushrooms for a pound more, sea bass (17.95) and a beef fillet at 19.95. Venison and chateaubriand (40 for two) were the specials on offer and I decided on the former, although I must admit I baulked a little at the 20 price tag.
The slices of venison had great texture with a real melt-in-the-mouth quality. There was another excellent combination of flavours with the shredded red cabbage and the creamy parsnip mash. I still couldn't resist ordering a bowl of rosemary salted chips (2.50) - supposedly to be shared among three of us(!) - and they proved to be extremely moreish.
The flavour-filled experience continued with M's canon of lamb (16.95) which was cooked pinkish and laid on a bed of potato fondant, buttered savoy cabbage and pork lardons.
There's a decent wine list with a bonus selection of four house white and red and two rose ranging from 11 to 14 a bottle. They're also available by the glass for anything between 3 and 5.10. The others cost from 13 to 25 and there's also a fine wine selection, champagne, sparkling and dessert wines plus draught and bottled lagers and beers.
We continued on a roll with the desserts (all 5.50) or the cheese and biscuits at 6.95.The chocolate fondant comes with a warning - it takes five minutes to bake. It was worth the wait even though part of the top was slightly burnt. Light, fluffy and oozing chocolate, it was served with warm dark chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream.
The warm apple tarte tatin was a dream ... thin wedge-shaped pastry, topped with slices of slightly caramelised apple and served with mascarpone cheese.
The food bill came to 66.35.
Verdict: Excellent food but at a price. Perfect place for that special occasion with another plus factor of friendly, efficient service.
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Food served: Monday to Saturday: Noon - 2.30pm and 6.30 - 9.30pm; Sunday lunch (two courses 12, three courses 15) noon - 3.00pm.
Vasco, 169 Bawtry Road, Wickersley, Rotherham. Telephone: 01709 531999.
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