The blow was compounded by the fact that rival Leeds has risen to 15 entries and even Huddersfield and Bradford have three each.

In Sheffield, Richard Smith's Artisan and Catch at Crosspool retain their five points for 'exact cooking with a degree of ambition' and
Neil Allen's Greenhead House at Chapeltown keeps its two points.

But Rafters at Nether Green and the Blue Room at Woodseats have been axed from the guide – following in the wake of the Curator's House and the Supper Club at Abbeydale, which both slipped off the list last year.

The news has dismayed city restaurateurs, who recently stepped up their drive for recognition."

There are some strange anomalies in there," said Sean O'Toole, head of the newly-formed Sheffield Area Restaurateurs' Forum, who was quick to raise his concerns with publishers Which?

Part of the problem, he believes, is that the guide relies on readers to pinpoint the best restaurants, and Sheffield diners are slow to recommend their favourites.

Even if names are put forward, it can take 18 months for inspectors to get round to assessing them.

Sean says: "We've got some fantastic professionals in Sheffield, who work very hard to produce good food.

"But I don't think people here are as engaged with the guide as they might be – they take more notice of local restaurant critics."

However, he his determined that the city will make its mark next year and has launched a campaign to ensure it does so.

"We've got to bring some pressure to bear, to get them to look on Sheffield as an up-and-coming food and drink destination. Sheffield has to have a voice. If you feel someone merits a mention, write in to these people and tell them so. Let's see what difference we can make. Hopefully this time next year we'll be able to see some progress."

Meanwhile, neighbouring Derbyshire ensures that gourmands still have good reason to visit the area.

Tessa Bramley's Old Vicarage at Ridgeway and Max Fischer's Baslow Hall both secure places in the national top 40 with seven points each for highly ambitious and individual cooking.

The Cavendish Hotel's Gallery restaurant and Rowley's gastro-pub make Baslow the undisputed culinary capital of the Peak District, with three points each. Just up the road, the George at Hathersage maintains four points and the Devonshire Arms at Beeley is a new entry with three points for chef Alan Hill.

Columbine in Buxton retains two points and the Old Post in Chesterfield is in there too, but the Riverside at Ashford, the Druid at Birchover and the Chequers at Froggatt have all disappeared.

The Good Food Guide can be ordered on 01903 828557 (£16.99, p&p free) or at www.which.co.uk/books Reviews may be submitted via the Which? website: www.which.co.uk/gfgfeedback. These submissions form the basic list for possible inclusions.