Review: Last word in good pub experience

Since then the Devonshire Quarter has grown up around it – and Forum founder Kane Yeardley has built up an empire of nine popular bars, as well as the True North brewery, Sheffield Dry Gin distillery and a coffee roastery.

His latest project – the 16th century, Grade II-listed Blue Stoops in Dronfield – has proved the biggest challenge of all...

The pub finally opened last week, several months behind schedule and several hundred thousand over budget after a series of setbacks.

But the finished result has made the effort worthwhile.

"It's been hard," admits Kane, surveying the carefully restored panelling and newly-installed parquet flooring.

"We took it over last October after the place had been closed for two years. First we discovered the floor was caving in, then the gable end was falling to pieces. It ended up costing double what we'd expected – it's our biggest investment to date. But it's all come together and we're off to a good start."

Once again, Kane has judged his market to perfection: this is exactly what Dronfield needs.

"This place has the potential to feel like somewhere between a pub and a hall," he says. "It's homely and warm but elegant too."

Original features and a smattering of quirky antiques give the building real character, while trendy design details, a contemporary tiled bar and pithy painted wall quotes place it firmly in the 21st century.

The Blue Stoops serves True North's own craft beers and gin, as well as a range of others, and the kind of top quality pub food that have made its siblings such a success – from the city-centre Common Room, the Broadfield and the York to more recent acquisitions the Riverside and the British Oak at Mosborough.

It's a long time since I've been here, but that's no surprise... My last piece about it (in 2007, when it was owned by former Sheffield footballer Kevin Gage) notes that karaoke and DJ party nights were regular features; all rooms were dominated by wall-mounted plasma TV screens; and the only food was crisps or peanuts.

How times have changed! The sleek wood panelling now gleams with care and attention; a new beer garden and first-floor function room have opened up the building to a range of new users; and a kitchen extension means that good food is now very much part of the offer.

This is in the hands of head chef Darren Roberts, who trained at Castle College and worked for SIV and Sheffield United before joining the Forum group seven years ago.

He has worked his way round most of the True North venues, but was eager to have a hand in setting up this new addition – particularly in designing a workspace tailor-made to the team's needs.

"This is a great venue, a great location and the best kitchen in the group!" he says.

The menu, like the bar, is 'classically British with a modern twist', using local produce where possible. Features include the special pie selection, all at £8.50 – today's range from steak and mushroom to spiced chickpea and red pepper.

Most of the staff are new, but service is good: efficient and, above all, friendly.

We order drinks: a pint of True North's best for him and a glass of crisp Chilean sauvignon blanc for me (wines from £14.50, or £2.50 a glass).

Starter of mackerel fillet is disappointing. The fish is nicely cooked, but the bread hasn't been toasted and none of the promised capers are evident in the beetroot salsa. The result is limp, sweet and lacking in any contrast of texture or tang.

Soup, on the other hand, is excellent: a creamy broccoli and stilton potage, nicely seasoned, with chunks of sourdough bread.

Reputation is fully restored with the main course. My pan-fried salmon is meaty, succulent and full of flavour, enhanced by a sage and onion crust. It comes with sautéed slices of new potato, wilted kale and a deliciously rich chive butter sauce.

The biggest triumph, of course, is the pie. True to the standard set by True North's executive chef, Andy Burns, it's a deep case of golden shortcrust pastry, packed – in this instance – with chunks of tender chicken and leek in a thick sauce.

My companion is in his element as he tucks in with relish to this generous plateful, complete with crisp hand-cut chips, a mound of mushy peas and a jug of gravy.

There's a daily choice of five desserts. We share a truly delicious white chocolate and ginger cheesecake – a perfect balance of creamy sweetness and zingy heat.

Dinner for two is £37.40, excluding drinks and service.

We finish the evening with an impromptu get-together with old friend Alan Powell, the current Mayor of Dronfield.

He was editor of the Sheffield Telegraph when I joined it 27 years ago, so it seems a fitting way to end this, my 
final piece for the paper.

* The Blue Stoops, High Street, Dronfield S18 1PX; (01246) 411077; www.bluestoops.co.uk