Food review: Standards are rising at the Sun inn
The Rising Sun in Fulwood has had quite a makeover in the last 18 months.
On a previous visit during the 2015 general election - to canvass voters in Nick Clegg’s consistency - it appeared to be very much a traditional pub, a wide array of beers, a dedicated selection of regulars who would put in the hours, even during the work day.
But we called in a few weeks ago for an end of walk drink to find much had changed.
There’s now a dining area, covered by a skylight-like ceiling, very snazzy toilets and of course proper food on offer as the Abbeydale Brewery pub branches out from ale.
“There has been quite a transformation, they didn’t used to do food at all”, said head chef Liam Scott, formerly of the Wick at Both Ends, who has been on board for around three months.
“There’s a lot of potential here, it’s got a great reputation for beer and we want it to get the same reputation for food.”
Word seems to have spread - perhaps due to the lack of eating out options in the immediate area.
The car park at the rear of the flower-covered pub was full, we snagged the last table at 8pm on a Thursday and the pie and pork dishes had already sold out.
There’s many an established restaurant which would be glad of that turnout.
Liam added: “There’s not an awful lot of competition, in Broomhill there are a few places but where we are I think it’s just us and Rafters.
“It has been quite hectic, we’ve only been running this menu for a week as it is our summer autumn one, but the response from people has been great so far.”
Menu-wise, there is a solid choice on offer, we could have chosen almost any of the mains.
Veggies, coeliacs and vegans have options too.
A pub without bangers and mash, or fish and chips, is rare and those both do feature, but so does rolled lamb’s breast, and sea bream fillet, truffle and parmesan chips, not to mention chorizo in no less than three dishes.
Seafood is also a focus and supplied by JH Mann’s in Sharrow Vale, one of several local independents favoured by the team, led by landlords Ryan and Nicole Tissington.
Liam added: “I know it’s a bit of a cliché but we do want to do modern British, with it being a pub we have got a few classics on but we have tried to be abit more innovative with other things on the menu, such as the seafood.
“We want everything to be as fresh as possible, we are changing the menu every three months to make sure it is seasonal and as good as it can be.
“We’ve got a dedicated pastry chef, Luke Hanson, and he likes to take old classics and tart them up a bit!”
More on the puddings later.
Despite the crowds our busy waitress was chatty, and service swift.
He’d chosen whitebait, crisp, pungent fish served nicely and in a good portion size - too often pubs hand over an entire miniature bucket full of the stuff - with a fresh lemony zing to it.
On the other side of the scales my scallops were possibly the smallest I had ever seen - one tiny, golden morsel was almost the size of my pinkie fingernail.
It turns out they were Queen scallops from the Isle of Man, sweeter than their larger king cousins and apparently a national delicacy.
For £6.95 I would expect more, and a note on the menu would be helpful.
Thankfully there was glazed pork belly, fine, and pea puree as well.
Things looked up with the mains.
His beef burger (£8.95) was a fine specimen to behold.
A golden brioche bun contained well seasoned meat and Hendo’s laced ketchup added flavour, along with gooey cheese and bacon.
Chips too were worth writing home about.
They were the huge Jenga-shape kind, soft within, just crispy enough outside - delicious.
Another surprise came in the chicken supreme, with the meat on the bone rather than, as many pubs do serve, a lacklustre chicken breast.
There was heaps of flavour, also from the creamy mushrooms, salty bacon and spinach, with plenty of mustard and pepper packed jus to coat my own jersey royals as well as a few stolen chips.
We hit a peak with desserts.
To be honest, I hadn’t expected much more than a chocolate brownie. Boy was that wrong.
Luke had pulled out all the stops with the Bakewell tart, a finely crafted cake on its own, but served with a fun honeymilk panna cotta in the shape of an ice lolly.
There were shards of crunchy, amber almond tuille and ice cream, micro flowers and a ruby red, sweet raspberry sauce.
An equal amount of thought had gone into his blood orange jaffa cake, with a crumbly truffle, sharp sorbet and chocolate crumb elevating the plate to something any restaurant could be proud of, especially for £5.95.
In total we paid a very reasonable £45.80 for three courses each, one large wine and soft drinks.
The Rising Sun, 471 Fulwood Road, Sheffield, S10 3QA
Tel: 0114 2303855