Pop-up in Sheffield is an amazing taste of things to come

Joe Shrewsbury and Flo Russell, of Tonco, shopping for ingredients (pic: Tonco)
Joe Shrewsbury and Flo Russell, of Tonco, shopping for ingredients (pic: Tonco)

The Barrowboy on Abbeydale Road usually serves up bao buns but on Sunday the kitchen was taken over by pop-up restaurant Tonco.

This is a charming venue, with an open kitchen and a great bar offering an extensive list of cocktails. The decor inside this former grocery store is simple but tasteful, and it’s cosy without feeling cramped.

Mussels and monk's beard with smoked butter and whey

Mussels and monk's beard with smoked butter and whey

There was a small but varied menu, with an international feel and a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients, including artichoke croquettas and coffee-baked beetroot. It’s elegant but unfussy, with some intriguing flavour combinations.

The plump mussels with monk’s beard and smoked butter brought back the childish delight of exploring among rock pools, and the chicken stuffed with pickled almonds and ricotta was like a grown-up chicken kiev.

It was all delicious, but if I’m being picky, the ceviche could have done with a touch more zing to bring the incredibly fresh fish to life a bit more.

Yes. We paid £46 but did eat our way through most of the menu. The £10 roast chicken dish would satisfy most appetites.

Ceviche

Ceviche

Very friendly and attentive.

Yes. The vegan and vegetarian options were equally tasty and imaginative, and we were warmly welcomed with our four-month-old baby.

Definitely. Tonco is back this Sunday and next, and possibly on more weekends before Joe and Flo open their own place near Site Gallery this summer.