Rafters Restaurant: How fine dining with a smile kick-started Sheffield's foodie revolution

Sheffield was recently named as the UK's top foodie hotspot following a gastronomic revolution which owes a lot to one city institution.

Today, the likes of Joro, Bench, Domo, Tonco and Juke & Loe at The Milestone, to name just a few - not to mention the many independent vendors cooking up a storm at the city's acclaimed food halls - are among a slew of feted dining establishments putting Sheffield very much on the map.

But they all owe a debt to Rafters Restaurant in Nether Green which has blazed a trail since opening in 1989, when the city was not so blessed with top-end restaurants, and set the bar for those that have followed.

Today Rafters boasts three AA Rosettes, with critics praising the 'simple but innovative flavour combinations and clean, precise flavours'. It is also Michelin-recommended and, alongside Joro, leading the race to get a Michelin star for Sheffield.

Previous owners of Rafters

Rafters was initially opened by June Hall, George Taylor and Steve Sanderson in what had been a cafe called The Carriageway.

But it was after the Bosworth brothers, Wayne and Jamie, took over in around 1993 that the restaurant really began making waves.

Its reputation continued to grow under Marcus Lane, who took over 10 years later, and the current custodians, Alistair Myers and Tom Lawson, who on November 18 this year notched up a decade in charge themselves. Today, after more than 30 years, Rafters remains one of the places to go in Sheffield, conjuring up culinary magic from behind its unremarkable frontage on Oakbrook Road.

The Star caught up with Tom and Alistair to find out the secret to Rafters' longevity and their plans for the future.

How Rafters has 'moved with the times'

"We bought a great restaurant but to reach our 10th anniversary is fantastic because that's something lots of restaurants never achieve," said Alistair.

"Rafters is only here 30 years later because it's moved with the times. When Marcus bought it from the Bosworths he knew it was ready for change and when we bought it from him we knew the same. It's never been a restaurant that's afraid to move forwards.

"When we took over 10 years ago it was still a very traditional restaurant with table clips and linen, almost silver service, and everything came with a side of veg.

"We got rid of the tablecloths and made it into a more contemporary establishment. We've now got the open kitchen and we have chefs coming out to serve the food and talk about the dishes.

More relaxed dining

"It's much more interactive and relaxed. People today are more interested in food and more knowledgeable about it, and they want to know more about what they're eating."

Two years after taking over Rafters with Alistair, Tom was among the winners of The Caterer magazine's Acorn Awards, which recognise the industry's 30 most talented people aged under 30, with Gordon Ramsay among the previous recipients.

Soon after that, the pair were named Sheffield + Region Business People of the Year.

Rafters' three AA rosettes, an achievement Alistair calls 'just incredible', are proof of how they have fulfilled that early promise in the intervening years.

"Tom and I worked in pubs together before we had Rafters and we've always worked well together," says Alistair.

"For us, it's about the kitchen and front of house working in harmony to ensure we provide customers with great food and great service."

Will Sheffield get a Michelin star?

It's fair to say that Rafters and Joro, in Kelham Island, today stand at the top of Sheffield's foodie tree, and both are knocking at the door when it comes to landing an elusive Michelin star for Sheffield.

But Alistair insists there is no rivalry, explaining: "We're two very different restaurants, both at the top of our game."

Nor are he, Tom and the rest of the team at Rafters obsessing over a star.

"I can't lie, we'd love a Michelin star and we feel we're probably there but our focus is on ensuring everyone who walks through the door has a great meal and walks away with great memories," he says.

"The food is exquisite and the service is fantastic but it's Sheffield hospitality. It's not yes, sir, no, sir, three bags full, sir, it's about making sure everyone feels relaxed and comfortable. If you want to come in shorts and a T-shirt, that's fine."

New lease signed

Over the past decade, Rafters has had to contend with both Covid and the cost-of-living crisis, which Alistair says has made things 'horrendously difficult'.

"It's about facing it head on and making sure we're buying right and there's no food wastage," he says. "We're a tasting menu-only restaurant now, which helps."

Alistair adds: "We've just signed a new four-year lease and we intend to make it to the 20th anniversary at least."

The Sheffield food scene is today buzzing, which Alistair says is a far cry from when Rafters first opened and when he and Tom took over.

"There are some really nice restaurants which have opened recently, which is great for Sheffield," he tells The Star.

Where would Rafters owners eat in Sheffield?

"If I was going to eat out I'd probably go to Bench, in Nether Edge, because what Jack (Wakelin) and Ronnie (Tom Aronica) are doing there is fantastic, but there are lots of great casual places to eat and the food halls are brilliant too."

Of the dishes they have served over the years at Rafters, one of Tom and Alistair's favourites is the 'Cauliflower Cheese, not like Grandma B' - very loosely inspired by the meal Tom's grandmother liked to make with a sauce consisting simply of milk, cornflour and cheese slices.

"We've really elevated it and people absolutely love it," says Alistair.

Today, the team includes head chef Dan Conlon, who started as a part-time commis chef, and the manager, Ben Ward, who was washing pots when he first joined. Luke Rhodes, a former semi-finalist on MasterChef: The Professionals also joined recently as sous chef.

Tom says: "The whole thing for us with Rafters is sharing the food we love to eat with other people and giving them the great service we want them to experience when they come to our home."